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Caring cook serves elderly empty-nesters

Woman returns to Shaanxi hometown to give back to community in need

By LI HONGYANG | China Daily | Updated: 2026-06-01 09:43
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Yue Aping hands a bowl of noodles to a senior villager in Xinzhuang, Xixian New Area, in Shaanxi province. ZHAO HUA/FOR CHINA DAILY

Every Monday through Saturday at 11:30 am, 47-year-old Yue Aping drives a three-wheeled delivery van through the lanes of Xinzhuang village, shouting a simple announcement: "Lunch is ready. Bring your bowls."

For the village's elderly residents, many of whom are in their late 70s and 80s or living with mobility impairments, Yue's mobile canteen provides their only hot, balanced meal of the day. The cost per diner is a symbolic 2 yuan ($0.28) — a price point so far below the market rate that the operation runs an active monthly deficit, which Yue originally covered entirely out of her own pocket.

Xinzhuang, located within Xixian New Area on the outskirts of Xi'an, Shaanxi province, mirrors a widespread demographic challenge across rural China: the "empty-nest" phenomenon. While the adult children of these seniors have migrated to urban centers for manufacturing and corporate jobs, sending back steady remittances to ensure their parents' fridges remain stocked with meat and produce, the isolation of rural life has created an unexpected nutritional gap.

Yue never intended to become the village cook. Last year, while her daughter was preparing to take the important high school entrance exam, Yue temporarily closed her tea house in Tianshui, Gansu province, to provide more support. She shifted her attention to managing her other business in Xianyang, a city near Xi'an, which was able to operate smoothly without her constant presence.

After dropping her daughter off at school in the morning, she was free. Yue needed to find something to do, which would not exhaust her or affect her parenting.

She found the answer in Xinzhuang village where she grew up, about 5 kilometers from her apartment in Xianyang. She was renovating her late parents' old house in the village and saw elderly villagers she remembered from childhood — once strong and now bent.

"It really got to me. Sometimes I'd talk to them and think of my own parents," Yue said.

Over time, she noticed the way they ate. Yue observed that the elderly who live alone, or with their husband or wife, tend to cut corners on cooking.

"For example, they'd make a pot of porridge and misjudge the amount. They'd keep reheating and eating it, which is an unhealthy lifestyle, but they just couldn't bring themselves to throw food away," she said.

Then she saw a video on her phone.

About 70 km away, a village Party secretary named Pang Fuqiang was delivering two-yuan meals to senior people in his community. The clip that caught her attention showed a big-voiced man in the rain, shouting through the lanes with meals in his hands. "A man who's not even related to these people is out in the wind and rain for them. I was so moved," Yue said.

She wondered if anyone in her village was undertaking a similar endeavor. If they were, she intended to offer her assistance — yet, she found that no one was.

In October last year, she lit a stove in her courtyard to cook community meals. For those who cannot make it to the courtyard, Yue drives to their doorsteps.

When she started, about 60 people ate from her canteen. As a result, she ended up covering about 5,000 yuan in expenses each month.

"But it's not that much anymore these days. Donations from many people eased my burden," she said.

One villager gave her 10 kilograms of pork. Another bought a whole sheep. Random people leave vegetables at her door.

The local women's federation connected her with a business that donated 20,000 yuan worth of kitchen equipment.

The village is now building her a roughly 50-square-meter steel shed as a bigger kitchen, so the donated gear can be put to use soon. Her old kitchen, squeezed into her original yard, was just 20 sq m.

Four women from the village, all in their 70s, come by every day to assist her.

They helped wash vegetables, chop ingredients, proof dough and scrub pots.

"They treat it like a job, but everyone works for free. Some of them tell me, 'People donate money to temples to earn good karma, but coming here and working is really good karma'," Yue said.

Diners all genuinely care about Yue. Whenever she makes something elaborate, such as roujiamo, a meat-stuffed flatbread, or a soup that takes extra effort, they tell her not to fuss.

"Just make us simple noodles. Don't wear yourself out," they'd say to Yue — and they never criticize the food.

"Sometimes I knew the soup was too salty, but they just encouraged me by saying it was perfect," Yue said.

Yue's niece, who married into the neighboring village, comes to film the daily lunch and posts the video clips online, drawing attention far beyond Xinzhuang.

"I saw my grandmother in your video. Thank you for looking after her," a netizen commented on her Douyin account.

A man whose father eats at Yue's canteen sent a message to Yue:"Thank you for taking care of my dad. I can work outside and not worry. When I come home for Spring Festival, I'll come and visit you."

Yue said: "I've never met these people, but they watch their parents and grandparents eat lunch through my videos. Their words are part of the reason that keeps me going."

Villagers also cheer her on. "Some just stop by to say hi and see how I'm doing and others bring me some vegetables or little things," she said.

Although Yue's canteen is still operating at a loss, she said she has stopped worrying about personal gains or losses.

"If I worried about costs the way a businessperson would, I'd skimp on the good stuff and hold back on the oil," she said.

"Right now, we mainly serve people aged 70 and older, plus a few with disabilities. Once things are steady, I want to lower the age to 60. More people need this than I realized," Yue said. "As long as they need me, I'll be here."

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